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Mention of Vladivostok may conjure up images of harsh winters, decaying Soviet infrastructure, post-Communist suspicion and social isolation. Such concerns are more Cold-War myth than present-day reality.
In fact, serving at the U.S. Consulate in Vladivostok gives Foreign Service officers the chance to manage their own section; travel widely throughout one of the world’s largest, most awe-inspiring consular districts; and help promote U.S. investment in Russia’s booming oil and gas industry.
In the last year alone, the consulate has hosted 1,200 officers
and sailors from the command ship of the U.S. Seventh Fleet, worked to preserve
the habitat of the Siberian tiger and the Amur leopard, co-hosted business
forums on energy-laden Sakhalin Island, organized NATO’s first ever public
diplomacy rally on Russian territory and supported programs to decommission
Soviet-era
nuclear submarines. Add Russia’s evolving relations with China and North Korea
to the mix and Vladivostok becomes a reporting
officer’s dream.
Dispelling the Myths
As for the myths: Vladivostok is not Siberia. Located at the same latitude as Boise, Idaho, it has warm summers, beautiful springs and autumns, and cold but clear winters. The city has a European-style downtown dating from the late 19th century. Consulate staff live in new, spacious townhouses with a magnificent view over the Golden Horn Bay.
The consulate enjoys excellent relations with official and ordinary Russians. The U.S. Navy and a Washington, D.C., hip-hop band both experienced a warm welcome when they visited this international port city in July. Russia’s major metropolitan center on the Pacific, Vladivostok is home to six consulates, several international nongovernmental organizations and a number of intrepid expatriates. Finally,
Korea, Japan and China are just an hour or two away.
The United States has been engaged in Pacific Russia—the Russian Far East—since 1856, when a U.S. commercial agent was posted to the town of Nikolaevsk. That position then moved to Vladivostok (founded in 1860), where it became a trade mission and, ultimately, a full-fledged consulate.
After the Bolsheviks gained control over the independent-minded Russian Far East in 1923, the consulate shut its doors. They reopened, however, less than two decades later to facilitate delivery of American Lend-Lease assistance to the USSR; more than half of this crucial aid came through Vladivostok. The consulate closed again in 1948 during the dawning days of the Cold War.
Shortly thereafter, Vladivostok was declared a closed city, and even Russians needed special permission to visit it. With the fall of the Soviet Union, the present consulate reopened in 1992, and marks its 15th anniversary this month. In addition, this year the United States and Russia celebrate 200 years of diplomatic relations.
Self-Reliance
Vladivostok’s 700,000 inhabitants are nine hours from Moscow by plane, 9,300 kilometers away by train and seven time zones away by phone. This remove has bred a spirit of self-reliance among Russia’s Far Easterners, whose lives are often as affected by events in China and Japan as by those in their own capital. For them, the Trans-Siberian Railroad begins, rather than ends, in Vladivostok.
At the consulate, 7 American and 30 local employees serve a consular district twice the size of India. The consul general, public affairs officer, management officer, political-economic officer, consular officer, information systems officer and general services officer manage a broad array of portfolios and programs covering nine of Russia’s largest, most rugged and economically diverse regions. They serve U.S. interests in Pacific Russia as part of the U.S.
Embassy in Moscow’s team, along with the consulates general in St. Petersburg and Yekaterinburg, and in cooperation with U.S. diplomatic and military missions in East Asia. Separated by only 58 miles across the
Bering Sea, Pacific Russia and the U.S. Northwest have much in common, from trade links to environmental concerns. But the two regions remain in many ways worlds apart. One of the consulate’s primary goals is to reconnect the frontiers between our two countries via mutually beneficial trade, military collaboration, cultural exchanges, academic research and political cooperation.
This is a particularly exciting time to be working in the Russian Far East. The $12 billion Sakhalin-1 project is one of the world’s most ambitious oil and gas developments and one of the largest single foreign direct investments in Russia. The consulate is actively engaged with U.S. firms working in the island’s burgeoning petroleum sector. To serve the hundreds of Americans who now live and work on Sakhalin, the State Department in 2006 opened the first-ever U.S. consular agency on Russian soil.
Beyond Sakhalin, the Russian government is planning a $16 billion infrastructure development program covering the entire Russian Far East. Looking specifically at Vladivostok, as part of its bid to host the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation forum in 2012, the city is drawing up plans for several grand civil engineering projects, including two major suspension bridges, a refurbished airport and new highways, hotels and conference centers.
Day to Day
Life in Vladivostok does have its challenges. Air connections are limited and expensive, infrastructure does not meet Western standards and the diplomatic community is small. English-language education opportunities are limited, although the consulate’s dependent children have attended Russian schools with good results.
But the city also has a great deal to offer. On any night, one can attend classical music performances by Russia’s top musicians, see acting troupes or dance ensembles or hear an American jazz band or a symphony orchestra from South Korea. Young families can see circuses that draw Russia’s top stars, a nationally renowned puppet theater, children’s dance ensembles and a theater for young performers.
Pacific Russia is also an unparalleled playground for the outdoor enthusiast, offering trekking and camping, fly-fishing, helicopter skiing and tiger-watching. In Vladivostok alone, one can cross-country ski in the botanical garden, fish off the municipal piers and paraglide on the city’s grassy slopes.
The city’s cultural and recreational promise is matched by its growing political and economic importance. With the rise of China, the unpredictability of North Korea, the impact of Siberian and Russian Far East
hydrocarbons on international energy security and Russia’s aggressive reemergence onto the world stage, Vladivostok offers a rare vantage point on some of the 21st century’s most important developments.
For those adventurous officers who want to shape some of those developments, Vladivostok, the reemerging capital of Pacific Russia, is for you.
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Vladivostok citizens enjoy the military display by units of the
Russian Pacific Fleet during the observance of Russian Navy Day.
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| U.S. Consul General John Mark Pommersheim, third from right, and Public Affairs Officer Dan Hastings, far left, join American and Russian painters last year as they work on a painting that was donated to a maternity hospital in Vladivostok.
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| Consul General John Mark Pommersheim, second row center in suit, and employees at the U.S. Consulate General pose for their annual staff photo. |
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| An aerial view shows Vladivostok's central square, flanked by the historic downtown and Golden Horn bay, on Day of Russia. |
AT A GLANCE
Country name: Russia
Capital: Moscow
Total Area:
17, 075,200 square kilometers
Approximate Size:
Almost twice the size of the
United States
Government:Federation
Independence: August 24, 1991 (from the
Soviet Union)
Population: 141 million
Life Expectancy at birth: 65.8 years
Ethnic Groups: Russian, Tatar, Ukrainian,
Bashkir and Chuvash
Languages: Russian and numerous minority
languages
Currency: Russian ruble (RUR)
Per Capita Income: $12,200
Population Below Poverty Line: 18 percent
Import Commodities: Machinery, consumer
goods and medicine
Export Commodities: Petroleum, natural gas
and wood products
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